Monday, October 19, 2009
Check out our FALL HARVEST SALE at http://www.marinediscounters.com/!! 10% OFF all your orders of $200.00 or more! Just use promotion code FHS10 at check out to automatically receive your 10% discount. We have a wide range of great products to shop. Check out our extensive line of VacuFlush products, Yacht Brite products, Westerbeke Generators and parts, and much more. We are your marine super store, without the outragous prices! We can't be beat!
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Sunday, July 26, 2009
Fix for Chrysler marine alternaters
I recently had a customer come into my shop at Pflieger Marine Services(419-625-0605) with a problem of a Chrysler marine 318 engine that the alternator would not charge. The alternator on a Chrysler marine engine has been obsolete (as have been parts for said alternator) for years. I was able to make a fast and fairly inexpensive solution to this problem.
Remove the Chrysler marine engine alternator. Purchase part number AR20102 at www.marinediscounters.com. This is a new alternator made by Arco. It is a Delco style alternator and I am going to tell you how to make it work.
Install Arco alternator on Chrysler marine engine. Install the gray or purple number 10 wire on the large stud on the back of the Arco alternator. Now cut the orange wire with the small ring terminal off and tape it. This wire is no longer used. Make sure the belt is tight and tighten the alternator. Now go to the rear of the engine next to the starter. You will find a black box mounted on a plate and next to it will be a relay. Find the other end of the orange wire you cut and cut it off here and tape it. This wire is no longer used. Remove the small black box. It is the old voltage regulator. It will be mounted on the plate and have rubber foot mountings. Gray or purple number 10 wire that is now connected to the back of the alternator will probably be connected to the voltage regulater. Disconnect this, install a larger ring terminal on the end of the wire and connect this number 10 wire to the incoming side of the starter solenoid. The small ground strap left where the voltage regulator was may be eliminated as may the short wire that ran from the relay to the voltage regulator. This is very simple and can be done in about 10 minutes. As always, feel free to Pflieger Marine Services at 419-625-0605 for free technical advise and thank you for buying your marine parts at www.marinediscounters.com.
Remove the Chrysler marine engine alternator. Purchase part number AR20102 at www.marinediscounters.com. This is a new alternator made by Arco. It is a Delco style alternator and I am going to tell you how to make it work.
Install Arco alternator on Chrysler marine engine. Install the gray or purple number 10 wire on the large stud on the back of the Arco alternator. Now cut the orange wire with the small ring terminal off and tape it. This wire is no longer used. Make sure the belt is tight and tighten the alternator. Now go to the rear of the engine next to the starter. You will find a black box mounted on a plate and next to it will be a relay. Find the other end of the orange wire you cut and cut it off here and tape it. This wire is no longer used. Remove the small black box. It is the old voltage regulator. It will be mounted on the plate and have rubber foot mountings. Gray or purple number 10 wire that is now connected to the back of the alternator will probably be connected to the voltage regulater. Disconnect this, install a larger ring terminal on the end of the wire and connect this number 10 wire to the incoming side of the starter solenoid. The small ground strap left where the voltage regulator was may be eliminated as may the short wire that ran from the relay to the voltage regulator. This is very simple and can be done in about 10 minutes. As always, feel free to Pflieger Marine Services at 419-625-0605 for free technical advise and thank you for buying your marine parts at www.marinediscounters.com.
YES, your boats holding tank can be full.
I have had an absolute rash of customers with a similar Vacuflush problem. They come to me(Pflieger Marine Services 419-625-0605) and say " my vacuflush toilet won't make any vacuum but it does run" or "my Vacuflush toilet runs for a while and trips the breaker without making any vacuum".
I almost always tell them to check if there waste holding tank is full. The reply is inevitably, "it CAN"T be full, we just had it pumped out".
If your Vacuflush system is running without shutting off, and making NO VACUUM there is a good chance the tank is full or the vent line is plugged. When the Vacuflush pump comes on and pumps liquid to the waste holding tank, the air in that tank must be displaced out the vent line. If this does not happen the waste tank becomes pressurized. Once this happens the pump can not push against the back pressure thus no vacuum is made or(if the pump motor is weak) the breaker will trip. Worst case scenario is an exploded tank in the bilge.
If the vent line is plugged(from overfilling into it, corrosion or spider webs) then it can not be pumped out either. You may take the boat to the pump out and suck it out a little(usually just relieving the pressure on the tank) but with out positive airflow through the vent line the waste holding tank can not be pumped out. A trick is to hold down the foot pedal at the toilet thus giving a vent there.
The test is simple . Remove vent line from tank(carefully). Now flush toilet. If liquid pumps out of vent fitting, guess what? Now take boat to pump out (with this connection open) and pump out waste holding tank. After that check for a Sealand vent filter. If your boat is equipped with a Sealand vent filter, water in that filter will pack the activated charcoal thus stopping the venting action. Replace the Sealand vent filter. They may be purchased very inexpensively at my website www.marinediscounters.com. If no vent filter is present then check for water or T.P. in a low spot in the hose. Also look at the vent discharge fitting at the side of the boat. If it is a chrome fitting as is used on Vikings, egg harbor and ocean yacht the screen inside will corrode or be packed with spider webs and stop the venting action. As is always our policy, please feel free to call for free technical assistance at 419-625-0605 and we appreciate your business at www.marinediscounters.com.
I almost always tell them to check if there waste holding tank is full. The reply is inevitably, "it CAN"T be full, we just had it pumped out".
If your Vacuflush system is running without shutting off, and making NO VACUUM there is a good chance the tank is full or the vent line is plugged. When the Vacuflush pump comes on and pumps liquid to the waste holding tank, the air in that tank must be displaced out the vent line. If this does not happen the waste tank becomes pressurized. Once this happens the pump can not push against the back pressure thus no vacuum is made or(if the pump motor is weak) the breaker will trip. Worst case scenario is an exploded tank in the bilge.
If the vent line is plugged(from overfilling into it, corrosion or spider webs) then it can not be pumped out either. You may take the boat to the pump out and suck it out a little(usually just relieving the pressure on the tank) but with out positive airflow through the vent line the waste holding tank can not be pumped out. A trick is to hold down the foot pedal at the toilet thus giving a vent there.
The test is simple . Remove vent line from tank(carefully). Now flush toilet. If liquid pumps out of vent fitting, guess what? Now take boat to pump out (with this connection open) and pump out waste holding tank. After that check for a Sealand vent filter. If your boat is equipped with a Sealand vent filter, water in that filter will pack the activated charcoal thus stopping the venting action. Replace the Sealand vent filter. They may be purchased very inexpensively at my website www.marinediscounters.com. If no vent filter is present then check for water or T.P. in a low spot in the hose. Also look at the vent discharge fitting at the side of the boat. If it is a chrome fitting as is used on Vikings, egg harbor and ocean yacht the screen inside will corrode or be packed with spider webs and stop the venting action. As is always our policy, please feel free to call for free technical assistance at 419-625-0605 and we appreciate your business at www.marinediscounters.com.
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
ETHANOL 101: What You Need To Know About E10/Ethanol Fuel
There are 4 main problems with E10/Ethanol fuel. Problem 1: Debris in fuel
Ethanol is a powerful solvent and when first introduced it strips away any gums, varnish, or other build up found in fuel tanks and fuel delivery systems. This debris drops into the fuel and leads to colgged filters, injectors, and carburetors. An easy fix to this problem is STAR TRON, buy STAR TRON at the best avialable prices at www.marinediscounters.com. STAR TRON's enzymes break down this debris into sub-micron sized particles that are safely burned away while the engine operates. This greatly reduces the engine problems associated with the initial use of E10 fuels.
Problem 2: Excessive water in the fuel and phase separation
Ethanol attracts moisture from the atmosphere, chemically bonding with it to form an ethanol/water molecule. Water in the fuel causes engines to run rough, stall and can lead to internal damage to engine components. Fuel will naturally hold .5% water in suspension, but if water levels exceed this threshold, the water drops out of suspension. The water/ethanol molecules are heavier than the fuel and drop to the bottom of the tank, the remaining fuel is left without enough octane to properly operate the engine. Plus, the ethanol/water mixture is only partially combustible which can lead to severe engine problems. STAR TRON's enzymes prevent the water and ethanol molecules from chemically bonding. Therefore the water falls harmlessly to the bottom of the tank leaving the ethanol molecules in suspension with the fuel and preserving the fuel's octane rating. This prevents phase separation from occuring. The remaining water on the bottom of the tank is broken down to sub-micron size allowing it to be safely burned away while the engine is operating. Buy STAR TRON at an unbelievable price at www.marinediscounters.com.
Problem 3: Ethanol fuels break down quickly
Ethanol and gasoline do not chemically bond, instead they are held together in a weak suspension. Over a short period of time the E10 fuel begins to break down. The fuel begins forming solids which can clog the fuel delivery system and reduce octane ratings. STAR TRON is also a powerful fuel stabilizer which prevents the fuel's breakdown for up to 1 year. STAR TRON will also rejuvenate old fuel, restoring it to serviceable condition. Buy STAR TRON at www.marinediscounters.com at the best price on the web.
Problem 4: Ethanol causes lost power performance and decreased fuel economy
Ethanol does not produce as much energy as gasoline, losing up to 20+% of its power. E10 fuels result in decreased performance, reduced throttle response, and greatly reduced fuel economy. Unburnt fuel leads to carbon deposits. STAR TRON's enzymes allow more oxygen to attach to the fuel molecules at the time of combustion, resulting in a more complete burn of the fuel. This leads to greatly improved fuel economy as well as restored power and throttle response. The enzymes remove existing carbon deposits and future deposits are prevented.
STAR TRON is the ONLY mulitfunctional fuel additive that addresses all Ethanol Issues. For 6 years now, STAR TRON has been solving ethanol problems for boaters across the US. It will do the same job for cars, trucks, snowmobile, ATV, PWC, and motorcycle owners. STAR TRON works in all 2 and 4 cycle engines under all conditions. In addition to improving performance when using E10 fuel, it will also stabilize fuel for 1 year, making it the only all-season, all-purpose additive you need. It does this at the lowest cost of any fuel additive. Be careful of what additive you use - many are alcohol-based. Adding any alcohol to E10 can lead to engine problems. STAR TRON does not contain any alcohol and is 100% safe for use in E10 fuel. Read the MSDS of any fuel additive before using it with E10. Buy STAR TRON at the best price at www.marinediscounters.com.
Ethanol is a powerful solvent and when first introduced it strips away any gums, varnish, or other build up found in fuel tanks and fuel delivery systems. This debris drops into the fuel and leads to colgged filters, injectors, and carburetors. An easy fix to this problem is STAR TRON, buy STAR TRON at the best avialable prices at www.marinediscounters.com. STAR TRON's enzymes break down this debris into sub-micron sized particles that are safely burned away while the engine operates. This greatly reduces the engine problems associated with the initial use of E10 fuels.
Problem 2: Excessive water in the fuel and phase separation
Ethanol attracts moisture from the atmosphere, chemically bonding with it to form an ethanol/water molecule. Water in the fuel causes engines to run rough, stall and can lead to internal damage to engine components. Fuel will naturally hold .5% water in suspension, but if water levels exceed this threshold, the water drops out of suspension. The water/ethanol molecules are heavier than the fuel and drop to the bottom of the tank, the remaining fuel is left without enough octane to properly operate the engine. Plus, the ethanol/water mixture is only partially combustible which can lead to severe engine problems. STAR TRON's enzymes prevent the water and ethanol molecules from chemically bonding. Therefore the water falls harmlessly to the bottom of the tank leaving the ethanol molecules in suspension with the fuel and preserving the fuel's octane rating. This prevents phase separation from occuring. The remaining water on the bottom of the tank is broken down to sub-micron size allowing it to be safely burned away while the engine is operating. Buy STAR TRON at an unbelievable price at www.marinediscounters.com.
Problem 3: Ethanol fuels break down quickly
Ethanol and gasoline do not chemically bond, instead they are held together in a weak suspension. Over a short period of time the E10 fuel begins to break down. The fuel begins forming solids which can clog the fuel delivery system and reduce octane ratings. STAR TRON is also a powerful fuel stabilizer which prevents the fuel's breakdown for up to 1 year. STAR TRON will also rejuvenate old fuel, restoring it to serviceable condition. Buy STAR TRON at www.marinediscounters.com at the best price on the web.
Problem 4: Ethanol causes lost power performance and decreased fuel economy
Ethanol does not produce as much energy as gasoline, losing up to 20+% of its power. E10 fuels result in decreased performance, reduced throttle response, and greatly reduced fuel economy. Unburnt fuel leads to carbon deposits. STAR TRON's enzymes allow more oxygen to attach to the fuel molecules at the time of combustion, resulting in a more complete burn of the fuel. This leads to greatly improved fuel economy as well as restored power and throttle response. The enzymes remove existing carbon deposits and future deposits are prevented.
STAR TRON is the ONLY mulitfunctional fuel additive that addresses all Ethanol Issues. For 6 years now, STAR TRON has been solving ethanol problems for boaters across the US. It will do the same job for cars, trucks, snowmobile, ATV, PWC, and motorcycle owners. STAR TRON works in all 2 and 4 cycle engines under all conditions. In addition to improving performance when using E10 fuel, it will also stabilize fuel for 1 year, making it the only all-season, all-purpose additive you need. It does this at the lowest cost of any fuel additive. Be careful of what additive you use - many are alcohol-based. Adding any alcohol to E10 can lead to engine problems. STAR TRON does not contain any alcohol and is 100% safe for use in E10 fuel. Read the MSDS of any fuel additive before using it with E10. Buy STAR TRON at the best price at www.marinediscounters.com.
Sunday, May 24, 2009
www.marinediscounters.com is now stocking all the hose you need. In hardwall (wire wound) we have 5/8" all the way up to 6" I.D. @ great prices. We also have fuel fill and feed/vent hose. Pottable water hose from 3/8" to 1". Even "vernatube"./ This is solid fiberglass tubing in 1" to 6" I.D. great for long exaust runs (and cheaper than hose). This "vernatube" is also available in all different configurations i.e.; 4" 45 degree bend, 3" to 4" reducer, 4" pipe with two 3" nipples for exhaust crossover. Almost anything you can imagine, this comes that way. Simply call Pflieger Marine Services @ 419-625-0605 for your quote. There are just too many configurations for me to put on www.marinediscounters.com. You may also fax (419-625-6825)a drawing of what special piece is needed and we will get it for you.
Brad
Pflieger Marine Services
www.marinediscounters.com
Brad
Pflieger Marine Services
www.marinediscounters.com
Friday, June 20, 2008
Vacuflush Suction Pump At 1/2 Price!!
This blog I am posting to help all of my valued customers save big money. How to come up with a Vacuflush suction pump at literally half price. By going into my web site at http://www.marinediscounters.com/ and buying the parts and assembling them yourself(or have us do it for you) the total price of a Vacuflush suction pump is only 383.97. As you already know this pump retails around 750.00.
You will need 1) Sealand Vacuflush Suction pump body P.N. 341504
2) Vacuflush hose nipples P.N. 347800
2) Vacuflush nipple adapters P.N. sea347801
1) Vacuflush vacuum pump o-ring kit P.N.310151
4) Vacuflush duckbill valves
1)Vacuflush W-motor upgrade kit P.N.sea 311423
1)Vacuflush vacuum pump lid P.N. 341506
The only other thing that is needed are some machine screws around the top to hold the top down.
I know this sounds hard but it very easy to assemble. First holding the pump body with the long end to your left install 1 duckbill valve into the pump body facing the direction of the arrow on the body. Next install 1 nipple adapter by screwing it into the body against the duckbill valve. Now install 1 duckbill valve inside of that nipple adapter facing toward the first one and then install 1 hose nipple over that. On the right side, install 1 duckbill valve into 1 nipple adapter from the threaded end so the duck bill is pointing right(all duckbills must point the same way). Screw that adapter into the pump body on the right side. Now install the last duckbill into the last hose nipple and screw that nipple into the adapter. You are 1/2 way done.
Now, set the body on the table and get your o-ring kit and w-motor upgrade kit. The large square o-ring goes in the slot around the top of the body. The small round o-ring goes in the slot around the inside of the bellows on the w-motor upgrade kit. Take the 2 black 1/2 rings and posiotion them across from each other, flat side up around the neck of the bellows. They will fit into a groove made for them on the bellows. Squeeze them together tightly against the bellows so that the 2 ends almost touch. Now set that entire assembly into the pump body. It will not go down into the pump body perposely. Kock it to the side slightly and use a rubber mallat or brass hammer to TAP the high side down into the body. Now you may TAP all the around untill the top of the 1/2 rings are flush with the top of the pump body. Now, grease the small o-ring in the center of the bellows. Take the vacuum pump top, and set it over top of the bellows arm so that the neck of the top touches the o-ring in the bellows. Kock the top slightly and tap the high side so that the top seats flat on the pump body. Look through the top of the pump and make sure that the o-ring is still in the proper postion. Now install the (self supplied) machine screws in the holes around the top and attach the motor to the housing with the excentric going through the center of the bellows. You have done it and it takes less than half an hour to save hundreds of dollars.
Feel free to call us at 419-625-0605 for free advise as always. I will be putting a seperate part number(MD001) on the web site that will encompass all the parts needed to build your half price suction pump. For those of you who wish to have it assembled professionally the price will be 452.72 (1 hr labor added). This still an unbelievable way for you to either upgrade to the whisper quiet pump, replace that old pump with the large steel band around it or get a new vacuflush system and save alot of money on this component.
You will need 1) Sealand Vacuflush Suction pump body P.N. 341504
2) Vacuflush hose nipples P.N. 347800
2) Vacuflush nipple adapters P.N. sea347801
1) Vacuflush vacuum pump o-ring kit P.N.310151
4) Vacuflush duckbill valves
1)Vacuflush W-motor upgrade kit P.N.sea 311423
1)Vacuflush vacuum pump lid P.N. 341506
The only other thing that is needed are some machine screws around the top to hold the top down.
I know this sounds hard but it very easy to assemble. First holding the pump body with the long end to your left install 1 duckbill valve into the pump body facing the direction of the arrow on the body. Next install 1 nipple adapter by screwing it into the body against the duckbill valve. Now install 1 duckbill valve inside of that nipple adapter facing toward the first one and then install 1 hose nipple over that. On the right side, install 1 duckbill valve into 1 nipple adapter from the threaded end so the duck bill is pointing right(all duckbills must point the same way). Screw that adapter into the pump body on the right side. Now install the last duckbill into the last hose nipple and screw that nipple into the adapter. You are 1/2 way done.
Now, set the body on the table and get your o-ring kit and w-motor upgrade kit. The large square o-ring goes in the slot around the top of the body. The small round o-ring goes in the slot around the inside of the bellows on the w-motor upgrade kit. Take the 2 black 1/2 rings and posiotion them across from each other, flat side up around the neck of the bellows. They will fit into a groove made for them on the bellows. Squeeze them together tightly against the bellows so that the 2 ends almost touch. Now set that entire assembly into the pump body. It will not go down into the pump body perposely. Kock it to the side slightly and use a rubber mallat or brass hammer to TAP the high side down into the body. Now you may TAP all the around untill the top of the 1/2 rings are flush with the top of the pump body. Now, grease the small o-ring in the center of the bellows. Take the vacuum pump top, and set it over top of the bellows arm so that the neck of the top touches the o-ring in the bellows. Kock the top slightly and tap the high side so that the top seats flat on the pump body. Look through the top of the pump and make sure that the o-ring is still in the proper postion. Now install the (self supplied) machine screws in the holes around the top and attach the motor to the housing with the excentric going through the center of the bellows. You have done it and it takes less than half an hour to save hundreds of dollars.
Feel free to call us at 419-625-0605 for free advise as always. I will be putting a seperate part number(MD001) on the web site that will encompass all the parts needed to build your half price suction pump. For those of you who wish to have it assembled professionally the price will be 452.72 (1 hr labor added). This still an unbelievable way for you to either upgrade to the whisper quiet pump, replace that old pump with the large steel band around it or get a new vacuflush system and save alot of money on this component.
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